Westmeath’s Glorious Greenways

“Grand day, isn’t it?” Cycling along the Old Rail Trail Greenway, don’t be surprised if you hear this often. There’s something about this gentle off-road route in the heart of leafy green Westmeath – stretching nearly 43km between Athlone and Mullingar – that brings out a positive side in people. Cyclists nod hello to each other, often stopping to share a few words about the weather. Life moves at a slower pace here.
 
The same can be said for Westmeath’s other excellent Greenway along the Royal Canal, where placid waters are by your side along a flat towpath that feels like the ultimate in relaxation. Best of all, the two Greenways intersect in Mullingar, making it easy to go from one to the other on a long-distance adventure or to sample a section of both.
 
For Alan Maye of Mullingar Bike Hire, these routes, combined with the 4km Greenway link from Mullingar Harbour Activity Zone to Lough Owel, offer what he describes as “about 180km of Greenway right on our doorstep”. With three distinct routes to explore, visitors can enjoy at least three days of cycling across Westmeath. Pair that with visits to local attractions such as Belvedere House, Athlone Castle and Fore Abbey, and you have a perfect break that mixes heritage and adventure. All in a part of the island that feels gloriously unhurried.
 
“Some of the greenways in Ireland can be quite busy, but these are very quiet,” notes Alan. “People love it. It’s an amazing experience for them. You’re out in the countryside, and it’s lovely.”
 
What to bring
If you’re heading off to explore any of the routes, it’s probably a good idea to bring some basics with you, such as a light rain jacket, sunscreen (if visiting in summer), a hat, water and some snacks.
 
Need to know

• Both the Old Rail Trail and the Royal Canal Greenway are relatively flat, with only very minor inclines at times, making them suitable for all ages and types of bikes.
• There are markers indicating distances along the way.
• Cyclists share the trail with walkers and should use a bell to alert others when approaching.
• There are places to stop along the way, such as Jack’s Stop at Streamstown and the village of Moate on the Old Rail Trail, as well as pubs and coffee shops along the Royal Canal Greenway. But distances between stops, especially on the Old Rail Trail, can be considerable, so always bring some supplies with you.

 
Getting started
Should you decide to explore these routes from Mullingar, Mullingar Bike Hire offers a range of rental options. Traditional bikes are available for €25, and electric bikes from €45. Children’s bikes and tandems are also available, and there are parking facilities, toilets, and showers on site. Hi-viz jackets, locks, helmets and detailed maps of the local greenways are also provided.
 
OE Bike Hire in Mullingar also offers bicycle rental. Cost-wise, it’s €45 for a full-day e-bike and €25 for a hybrid full day. There are half-day options available, and kids bikes can be hired for €15.
 
For guests staying at the Radisson Hotel in Athlone, complimentary bicycle hire is available.
 
 
THE OLD RAIL TRAIL GREENWAY
Where to start
The great thing about the Old Rail Trail Greenway – which follows the route of the historic Midlands Great Western Railway – is that it begins right in the heart of Athlone town, meaning that you can hop on your bike and get going without any hassle. Should you decide to start in Mullingar, bike hire is available from Mullingar Bike Hire at the Royal Canal Harbour Hub, where you can cycle along the water before connecting with the Old Rail Trail.
 
 
The sections
There are numerous options for cycling the Old Rail Trail. The route runs from Athlone to Mullingar (or Mullingar to Athlone) over 42km, so it’s best to decide what will suit you before you head off. Experienced cyclists might choose to tackle the whole route in one day, whereas many people choose to split it over two days, with a night either in Mullingar or along one of the stops along the way, such as Moate. If you’re short on time or you’re cycling with small children, you can just cycle one of the sections. For those beginning in Athlone, the route to Moate is the most popular, with a distance of around 14.5km (bear in mind, this is one way). Moate to Castletown is around 16.3km, and Castletown to Mullingar is around 11.4km.
 
If you are starting from Mullingar, then the section to Jack’s Stop at Streamstown and back is a good option. Along the way, you’ll pass by the scenic Castletown station.
 
What to see and do
Most of your time on the Old Rail Trail is going to be spent stopping to admire the wildflowers, taking a break to gaze at the gently undulating fields or simply enjoying the quiet tranquillity of your cycle, but there are some things to do and see along the way if you want to elevate your trip… Here are five to try:
 
 

1. Moate: Moate makes a nice stop-off point along the Greenway and is around 14.5km from Athlone. You’ll find a range of cafes, including Tuar Ard and The Pantry, or you can pop into P Egan’s traditional pub for a cup of tea or a pint beside the turf fire. Moate is also home to the Dún na Sí Amenity and Heritage Park. With a mix of open-air attractions and quirky museums, it’s the perfect spot for a serving of Irish history, mythology, nature and tradition. Finish up with cake, coffee or a bite to eat at the excellent Bastion Kitchen on site.
2. Jack’s Stop, Streamstown: Jack’s Stop is a tasty oasis along the Old Rail Trail. Genuinely warm and welcoming, its staff are only too keen to ensure you are well looked after. Enjoy homemade sandwiches and soups outdoors where you can listen to the birds sing, the bees buzz, and the cyclists zipping along the greenway. There are toilet facilities, as well as a children’s playground. A short stroll from the café is the Bee Pollinator Trail, with signposts and information about native bees.
3. Kilbeggan Distillery: Just off the Old Rail Trail, down narrow country lanes, you’ll find a real gem at Kilbeggan, Ireland’s oldest licensed distillery. The first distillery was established here in 1757, and after shutting its doors in 1953, Kilbeggan reopened and now offers three distinct experiences for the visitor to enjoy. Choose from the Distillery Experience, the Distillers Cask Bottling or the Irish Coffee Masterclass Experience, all of which take place at various times. Booking online in advance is recommended. 
4. Hill of Uisneach: Another short detour will take you to the Hill of Uisneach, where you take a break and stretch your legs with a walk or tour around what is one of the most ancient and sacred sites on the island of Ireland.
5. Time for pizza: Jump off the Old Rail Trail at Castletown and follow the road for about 3km to the locally loved Forge Pizza & Café, renowned as one of the best places in the midlands to enjoy a pizza.
6. Athlone and Mullingar: Don’t forget that the Old Rail Trail is bookended by the two towns of Athlone and Mullingar, both with plenty of interesting sights. In Athlone, visit Athlone Castle for an exciting dose of history or wander through art at the Shannon-side Luan Gallery. In Mullingar, drop into the Cathedral of Christ the King to enjoy its grand architecture and beautiful stained-glass windows.

THE ROYAL CANAL GREENWAY
The full Royal Canal Greenway stretches to 130km, but 33km of it can be enjoyed in Westmeath, where you’ll find glassy waters, flat towpaths and plenty of wildlife, including swans, herons, otters and badgers. With a history dating back to 1806, the canal passes under 90 bridges, past 33 locks, 17 harbours and four aqueducts, winding its way through idyllic rural scenery. This is a place where you can go slow, taking your time to enjoy the sights and sounds, stopping off at old-world pubs for laid-back lunches. Cycling from Mullingar, the buzz of the town fades into a distant memory as you push on into a landscape of fields, silken canals, and super-cute locks. As Alan of Mullingar Bike Hire notes, “There are bridges, locks and canal boats along the way, as well as some great pubs. We get great feedback about it.”
According to Alan, one of the most popular routes is to Mullingar Pewter, “it’s about 8km there and 8km back, so that would be a popular one. If you want something longer, you can carry on to Cunningham’s pub, which is about 14km from Mullingar”.
 
Where to start
Pick a bike up at Mullingar Bike Hire and all you have to do is cross the road, and you’ll be on the Royal Canal Greenway and ready to go.
 
The sections
The Royal Canal Greenway offers a selection of routes to enjoy in either direction, the most popular of which is Mullingar to Coolnahay Harbour (10.5km). You’ll cycle under and over old stone bridges and along a peaceful green part of the canal out to Coolnahay Harbour, which is one of the most idyllic and enjoyable sections of the Greenway. Here you’ll find the 26^th lock and a lovely old Lockkeeper’s Cottage, perfect for a coffee and cake. Mullingar to Thomastown Bridge (17.8km) offers tranquil scenery, and you can stop off at Cunningham’s pub, just off the Greenway at Riverstown Bridge, for a bite to eat along the way. Looking for alternatives or longer routes? From Coolnahay, you can continue on to the Meath Boundary (32.3km) or the Longford Boundary (14.4km).
 
What to see and do
With its charming locks, scenic old bridges and peaceful landscapes, the Royal Canal Greenway is all about slowing down, switching off and soaking up the history, heritage and natural beauty of this part of Westmeath. But there’s plenty to see and do along the way, so take your time and take it all in
 

1. Mullingar Pewter: Step into a world of traditional Irish craftsmanship at Mullingar Pewter, where you’ll find everything from goblets to chess pieces. It’s part shop, part museum (self-guided tours are available Monday to Friday) and is also home to The Pewter Café, a local hotspot serving all-day breakfasts, sandwiches, soups, quiches and cakes. 
2. Lock 26 Coffee House: Located at the exceedingly picturesque Lock 26 at Coolnahay Harbour, this super-charming coffee shop is an ideal place to sit back, relax and enjoy the beautiful surroundings.
3. Cunningham’s Bar: Located in Riverstown at Killucan, Cunningham’s is a cosy, old-style pub with a grocery store and plenty of local character. It’s a popular stop-off for cyclists, with food typically served until 9pm and views of the surrounding countryside.
4. Mullingar Harbour Activity Zone: The 22km section of the Royal Canal Greenway is also a designated Blueway, meaning that you can get out onto the water and enjoy it by kayak, paddleboard or canoe. Try Adventure Legend for kayaking tours from Mullingar on weekends and summer evenings.
5. Ballinea village and playground: Near the bridge at Ballinea, you’ll find a small shop where you can buy ice creams and sit and enjoy them in beautiful surroundings.
6. Lough Owel: Located north of Mullingar, Lough Owel feeds the Royal Canal and is famous for its beautiful sunsets. You can cycle out to the lough from Mullingar on a track that is mostly off-road and along a small stream, or else join a guided tour of the lough with Mullingar Bike Hire.
7. Bloomfield House Hotel: Located right on the Greenway and with views over Lough Ennell, Bloomfield House makes a nice place to stop for a bite to eat, a coffee or an overnight stay.